Unwanted Barking: Don’t Correct – Re-Direct!

The trainers at A Sound Beginning use a training protocol called the “Substitution Routine” when the dog is engaging in any undesirable behavior, to prevent and/or eliminate that behavior. This is written for BARKING but it is the same training whether it’s for barking, jumping up, or anything you don’t want your dog to continue doing.

NOTE: We use the words “react or reacting” as a general term to mean the same thing as barking, or jumping up, etc.

When a dog “reacts” it is usually in response to a specific environmental “trigger,” which could be the sight of an oncoming dog, a doorbell ringing, a man wearing a baseball cap, the UPS delivery truck, or the arrival of guests!

What is the Substitution Routine?
It is a string of behaviors you choose that can be done one after the other.

• The routine can consist of as little as 1 or as many as 5 behaviors.
• They must be behaviors your dog can do reliably.
• Sit, down, watch me, touch, shake, are some examples.
• The important thing is that the dog can EASILY do them WITHOUT failing.

The behaviors you choose will be your substitution routine.

Example:

• Ask dog to “SIT “
• Reward completion of the behavior
• Instruct dog to “WATCH ME “
• Reward completion of the behavior

• After the “trigger” is gone, or when your dog is focused on you, say something like “all done”, or “free”, to indicate the end of the session.
• Then try again* by continuing with your walk.
• If your dog starts barking again, redirect and do the routine.
• Repeat the routine as many times as necessary so your dog learns that reacting doesn’t get him what he wants.
• Only calm behavior and focus on you will earn him the ability to move forward on the walk. You are training him to associate the new routine as the choice you want your dog to pick rather than what he is choosing now.

How to use the “Substitution Routine”
The routine is done so the dog can learn to substitute a different behavior other than the barking. If possible, remove your dog from the trigger before he has a chance to react. But, if need be, redirect – substitute with the behavior or behaviors you choose and then give a food reward.

• If your dog is reacting while out walking and you know he is too far into the zone (meaning he is beyond being able to cope or even respond to your voice), just turn away in the opposite direction, and walk calmly but firmly while saying nothing. Your dog will probably still be barking, but he eventually will move closer to you and as soon as you feel the leash slack and the barking stops, even momentarily, give a treat and begin the substitution routine.
• If your dog is reacting in the home, try calling your dog to you and if he comes, praise, reward, and move him away quickly while using your happy voice. Most dogs are too distracted to comply, but this will work if your dog isn’t in the zone.
• Also In the home: If you know that he is usually too excited to comply, keep a leash attached that is light enough to drag. If he doesn’t come when you call, pick it up without saying anything and walk him away to do the routine.
• Do NOT leave your dog on a leash unsupervised. Remove it when done training.
• Do NOT do a tug-of-war with the leash. Just hold it securely at your hips while you turn in the opposite direction allowing your dog to follow so you can work the routine.
• Ideally increasing distance BEFORE your dog starts reacting is better than removing him afterwards. Preventing the barking is always better because your dog does not have a chance to practice getting better at it.

Be Pro-active:
Whenever possible it is always best to prevent the barking by allowing your dog more space and to do the routine BEFORE he barks. If he doesn’t respond to the first behavior you ask for then you are TOO close to the trigger. If you move farther away from the trigger and he listens but will NOT take a treat – you are still TOO CLOSE.

In the early stages of training, you will probably need to have your dog quite a distance away so he can focus on what you are asking for. Over time you can gradually move closer and closer to the trigger when your dog is more comfortable and more interested in you than anything else. With practice you will be able to tell when your dog is not as concerned about the trigger and begins to look to you for the opportunity to do the routine.

Take time to learn this together. It works!

In Summary:

1. Increase distance
2. Do the Substitution Routine
3. Decrease distance slowly and in small increments
4. Repeat as many times as necessary

If you always just remove the dog, he does not have the ability to learn a more appropriate response. Allowing your dog to practice the new routine is the way he learns to stop practicing the undesirable behavior and begin to offer a more appropriate response.

Source: ©2022 Positive Solutions for A Sound Beginning, NFP
https://www.asoundbeginningprogram.com/