For many rescue dogs, routine procedures such as nail trims, ear cleaning, brushing, medications, or veterinary handling can quickly become overwhelming. Some dogs have little prior handling experience, while others may already associate restraint and medical care with fear or discomfort.

Cooperative care offers a different approach.

At its core, cooperative care teaches dogs to willingly participate in husbandry and veterinary care instead of simply enduring it. Rather than forcing a dog through a procedure, the process focuses on trust, communication, predictability, and small achievable steps.

One of the most important themes from the seminar was that many handling struggles are not signs of a “bad dog.” Often, the dog is simply overwhelmed.

Laura described how dogs are frequently pushed into situations they are not prepared for, react emotionally or defensively, and are then labeled as fearful, stubborn, or aggressive. Over time, both the dog and caregiver begin dreading routine care.

Cooperative care attempts to “tip the scales” back toward success by slowing down the process and reinforcing small wins.

For example, instead of immediately attempting a full nail trim, training may begin with simply showing the clippers, briefly touching a paw, or rewarding calm behavior around the sound of a Dremel. The same approach can be used for ear care, oral care, injections, grooming, basket muzzles, and veterinary handling.

One particularly interesting concept discussed was consent-based handling. Dogs cannot verbally consent, of course, but they can learn predictable behaviors that communicate comfort and willingness to continue.

Examples included the following:

• Resting the chin on a towel or platform
• Standing calmly on a mat
• Remaining voluntarily engaged during handling

If the dog disengages or moves away, the handler pauses and reassesses rather than forcing the procedure forward.

The presentation also emphasized that medical and behavioral care often overlap. Pain, skin sensitivity, chronic ear infections, orthopedic issues, and previous medical trauma can all influence how comfortably a dog participates in handling.

One important reminder was that medication support is not failure. In some cases, veterinarian-prescribed pre-visit medications can significantly reduce stress and help prevent traumatic experiences.

For many AGaG members, the biggest takeaway may simply be this: slow down.

If a dog struggles with handling, that does not necessarily mean the dog is difficult or intentionally resistant. Often, the dog is communicating discomfort, confusion, fear, or lack of preparation.

A few practical starting points include the following:

• Keep sessions short and successful
• Pair handling with high-value rewards
• Watch body language closely
• Stop before the dog becomes overwhelmed
• Break procedures into smaller steps
• Include your veterinarian in the plan

Progress may feel slow initially, but repeated small successes often produce far better long-term results than repeatedly forcing stressful procedures.

Resources:

Laura Monaco Torelli
https://www.lauramonacotorelli.com/

Laura’s YouTube Channel
https://www.youtube.com/@lauramonacotorelli

Karen Pryor Academy Cooperative Care Course
https://karenpryoracademy.com/live-classes/#lmt

A Sound Beginning Program
https://asoundbeginningprogram.com/

Submitted by Eric Hale

The trainers at A Sound Beginning use a training protocol called the “Substitution Routine” when the dog is engaging in any undesirable behavior, to prevent and/or eliminate that behavior. This is written for BARKING but it is the same training whether it’s for barking, jumping up, or anything you don’t want your dog to continue doing.

NOTE: We use the words “react or reacting” as a general term to mean the same thing as barking, or jumping up, etc.

When a dog “reacts” it is usually in response to a specific environmental “trigger,” which could be the sight of an oncoming dog, a doorbell ringing, a man wearing a baseball cap, the UPS delivery truck, or the arrival of guests!

What is the Substitution Routine?
It is a string of behaviors you choose that can be done one after the other.

• The routine can consist of as little as 1 or as many as 5 behaviors.
• They must be behaviors your dog can do reliably.
• Sit, down, watch me, touch, shake, are some examples.
• The important thing is that the dog can EASILY do them WITHOUT failing.

The behaviors you choose will be your substitution routine.

Example:

• Ask dog to “SIT “
• Reward completion of the behavior
• Instruct dog to “WATCH ME “
• Reward completion of the behavior

• After the “trigger” is gone, or when your dog is focused on you, say something like “all done”, or “free”, to indicate the end of the session.
• Then try again* by continuing with your walk.
• If your dog starts barking again, redirect and do the routine.
• Repeat the routine as many times as necessary so your dog learns that reacting doesn’t get him what he wants.
• Only calm behavior and focus on you will earn him the ability to move forward on the walk. You are training him to associate the new routine as the choice you want your dog to pick rather than what he is choosing now.

How to use the “Substitution Routine”
The routine is done so the dog can learn to substitute a different behavior other than the barking. If possible, remove your dog from the trigger before he has a chance to react. But, if need be, redirect – substitute with the behavior or behaviors you choose and then give a food reward.

• If your dog is reacting while out walking and you know he is too far into the zone (meaning he is beyond being able to cope or even respond to your voice), just turn away in the opposite direction, and walk calmly but firmly while saying nothing. Your dog will probably still be barking, but he eventually will move closer to you and as soon as you feel the leash slack and the barking stops, even momentarily, give a treat and begin the substitution routine.
• If your dog is reacting in the home, try calling your dog to you and if he comes, praise, reward, and move him away quickly while using your happy voice. Most dogs are too distracted to comply, but this will work if your dog isn’t in the zone.
• Also In the home: If you know that he is usually too excited to comply, keep a leash attached that is light enough to drag. If he doesn’t come when you call, pick it up without saying anything and walk him away to do the routine.
• Do NOT leave your dog on a leash unsupervised. Remove it when done training.
• Do NOT do a tug-of-war with the leash. Just hold it securely at your hips while you turn in the opposite direction allowing your dog to follow so you can work the routine.
• Ideally increasing distance BEFORE your dog starts reacting is better than removing him afterwards. Preventing the barking is always better because your dog does not have a chance to practice getting better at it.

Be Pro-active:
Whenever possible it is always best to prevent the barking by allowing your dog more space and to do the routine BEFORE he barks. If he doesn’t respond to the first behavior you ask for then you are TOO close to the trigger. If you move farther away from the trigger and he listens but will NOT take a treat – you are still TOO CLOSE.

In the early stages of training, you will probably need to have your dog quite a distance away so he can focus on what you are asking for. Over time you can gradually move closer and closer to the trigger when your dog is more comfortable and more interested in you than anything else. With practice you will be able to tell when your dog is not as concerned about the trigger and begins to look to you for the opportunity to do the routine.

Take time to learn this together. It works!

In Summary:

1. Increase distance
2. Do the Substitution Routine
3. Decrease distance slowly and in small increments
4. Repeat as many times as necessary

If you always just remove the dog, he does not have the ability to learn a more appropriate response. Allowing your dog to practice the new routine is the way he learns to stop practicing the undesirable behavior and begin to offer a more appropriate response.

Source: ©2022 Positive Solutions for A Sound Beginning, NFP
https://www.asoundbeginningprogram.com/

Pets, like humans, thrive on routine. When these patterns are disrupted, it can lead to stress, anxiety, and even physical health issues.

Separation Anxiety

One of the most common challenges pets face when kids go back to school is separation anxiety. During the summer, your pets have likely enjoyed the constant presence of their human family members. When everyone suddenly leaves for the day, pets may feel confused, lonely, and anxious. This is especially true for dogs, who are known to form strong bonds with their human companions.

 Signs of separation anxiety can include the following:

• Excessive barking or whining
• Destructive behavior, such as chewing furniture or digging
• Accidents in the house, even if your pet is house-trained
• Pacing, trembling, or restlessness
• Excessive drooling or panting

Tips to Help Your Pets Adjust to Schedule Changes

1. Gradually Adjust Their Routine

To help your pets adapt to the new schedule, start making gradual adjustments to their routine in the weeks leading up to the first day of school. If you know your pet’s feeding or walking schedule will change, slowly shift these activities to the new times. This gradual transition will help your pets acclimate without feeling overwhelmed.

2. Create a Calm and Comfortable Space

Designate a quiet, comfortable area in your home where your pet can retreat when they’re feeling anxious or stressed. This space should include their bed, favorite toys, and perhaps a piece of clothing with your scent. A safe and cozy space can provide your pet with a sense of security during the day.

3. Increase Mental Stimulation

To combat boredom and keep your pet mentally stimulated, provide them with interactive toys, puzzle feeders, or treat-dispensing toys. Rotating toys can help maintain their interest and prevent boredom.

4. Maintain Regular Exercise

Physical activity is essential for your pet’s physical and mental health. Ensure your pet gets regular exercise, especially before you leave for the day. A brisk morning walk or a play session can help expend excess energy and reduce anxiety.

5. Practice Short Departures

To help your pet get used to being alone, practice leaving the house for short periods before the school year starts. Begin with just a few minutes and gradually increase the time you’re away. This practice can help reduce your pet’s anxiety when the full school routine begins.

6. Consider Pet Companionship

If your pet struggles with being alone during the day, you might want to explore options like doggy daycare, hiring a pet sitter, or arranging playdates with other pets.

7. Keep Departures and Arrivals Low-Key

Pets can become anxious if you make a big deal out of leaving or coming home. Try to keep your departures and arrivals low-key to avoid triggering anxiety. A calm, quiet exit and return can help your pet feel more secure and less anxious.

Source: Family Friends Veterinary Hospital

Electronic Collars

Peer-reviewed scientific literature, including meta-analyses and primary research, is clear: electronic collars carry significant risks of fear, aggression, physical pain, and long-term welfare harm, and they perform no better than reward-based methods. Studies have demonstrated that shock-collar use elevates stress physiology, increases fear-based behavior and avoidance, exacerbates aggression, and degrades the dog–handler relationship, including outside of training sessions.

Reward-based training is at least as effective, safer and more humane, and improves the dog–owner bond. Suggestions that shock collars can be used “in a humane fashion” as long as the pet “knows why it is receiving that shock” is inconsistent with how pet parents use shock collars. Animals do not reliably associate shocks with specific behaviors unless the timing, intensity, and context are precisely controlled, conditions that are not achievable in typical pet homes and are rarely achievable even in professional hands.

Poorly timed or poorly understood shocks, even if rare, increase the likelihood of fear conditioning, redirected aggression, and avoidance of the handler.

Reliance on fear or the anticipation of pain to suppress behavior is inconsistent with humane training principles endorsed by international veterinary and welfare organizations. Conditioning a dog to respond out of fear of a shock does not teach alternative behaviors, does not improve underlying emotional states, and is well documented to increase stress and risk of aggression

The idea that shock collars might be justified to prevent aggression or prevent a pet from “running into the road” is unsupported by the literature. Positive reinforcement and management-based training methods demonstrate equal or greater efficacy for teaching recall, leash behavior, and appropriate responses to triggers, without the associated welfare harms.

Internationally, electronic collar bans or restrictions have been established in the United Kingdom, Germany, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Denmark, and several Australian states.

Based on decades of clinical experience, peer-reviewed research, and global veterinary consensus, the ACVB holds that:

Electronic collars (shock collars) pose significant welfare risks and should not be recommended for any training. Positive reinforcement–based methods are equally or more effective for training needs, including recall, reactivity, and behavior modification.

Source: The Pet Professional Guild https://www.petprofessionalguild.com

Electronic Fences

Dogs (and humans) learn by association. Dogs pay attention to what things might predict other things. When they see you getting out the clippers, they realize it’s time for a toenails clipping. You pick up the leash, and the dog knows it’s time for a walk. They develop emotional responses accordingly. As pertains to electronic fences, this means that your dog can very easily come to fear and/or aggress towards people and other dogs due to the fence and collar, because if he sees anything that excites him and causes him to run across the boundary, either to flee or aggress, he will get shocked. If that pattern gets repeated just a few times: see mail carrier, get shocked, the appearance of the mail carrier will be associated with bad things happening.

Even if you have set up a visible boundary for your dog and followed the training instructions for the electronic fence, that training can never be guaranteed to “stick” during every possible situation. If something catches his interest and gets him excited, he may well forget about the perimeter entirely or not notice the warning sounds.

Equally tragic is what can happen to a friendly dog. Let’s say you have a retriever mix who loves kids. He gets really excited whenever he sees them. Here come some kids. Maybe they are even carrying a ball. Your dog rushes forward to greet them, hits the perimeter, and gets shocked. That doesn’t have to happen many times before your dog comes to associate kids with being hurt. You may have lost your dog’s friendliness forever, and he may become aggressive. You will have no power over what your dog associates with the shock. Bad experiences like this increase the likelihood of the dog developing fears and even aggression

Peer-reviewed scientific literature, including meta-analyses and primary research, is clear: electronic collars carry significant risks of fear, aggression, physical pain, and long-term welfare harm, and they perform no better than reward-based methods. Studies have demonstrated that shock-collar use elevates stress physiology, increases fear-based behavior and avoidance, exacerbates aggression, and degrades the dog–handler relationship, including outside of training sessions.

Reward-based training is at least as effective, safer and more humane, and improves the dog–owner bond. Second, the suggestion that shock collars can be used “in a humane fashion” as long as the pet “knows why it is receiving that shock” is inconsistent with how pet parents use shock collars.

Animals do not reliably associate shocks with specific behaviors unless the timing, intensity, and context are precisely controlled, conditions that are not achievable in typical pet homes and are rarely achievable even in professional hands.

Poorly timed or poorly understood shocks, even if rare, increase the likelihood of fear conditioning, redirected aggression, and avoidance of the handler.

Reliance on fear or the anticipation of pain to suppress behavior is inconsistent with humane training principles endorsed by international veterinary and welfare organizations. Conditioning a dog to respond out of fear of a shock does not teach alternative behaviors, does not improve underlying emotional states, and is well documented to increase stress and risk of aggression

The idea that shock collars might be justified to prevent aggression or prevent a pet from “running into the road” is unsupported by the literature. Positive reinforcement and management-based training methods demonstrate equal or greater efficacy for teaching recall, leash behavior, and appropriate responses to triggers, without the associated welfare harms.

Internationally, electronic collar bans or restrictions have been established in the United Kingdom, Germany, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Denmark, and several Australian states.

Based on decades of clinical experience, peer-reviewed research, and global veterinary consensus, the ACVB holds that:

Electronic collars (shock collars) pose significant welfare risks and should not be recommended for any training. Positive reinforcement–based methods are equally or more effective for training needs, including recall, reactivity, and behavior modification.

Source: Contained in a letter from The Board of Regents of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists

As Good as Gold Adoption and Foster Policies

• AGaG does not allow foster or adoptive families to use any of the following training devices on our dogs: choke chains, chain collars of any kind, prong collars or shock collars.
• AGaG will not adopt to anyone who has an active invisible fence.

Source: https://www.asgoodasgold.org/our-adoption-and-foster-policies/

This year’s coming celebration of the 250^th anniversary of the adoption of the Declaration of Independence will be here in a couple of weeks. Media commentary indicates more extensive celebrating than previous years.  Some areas are planning five-day celebrations, running from July 1 through 5. The expectation is for even more spectacular fireworks.

Sounds fun-to some.

Many dog owners know that the sounds from fireworks, thunderstorms, and other loud noises are common sources of fear and anxiety in their dogs. There are several reasons why a dog may develop this type of fear, such as a negative experience around a specific noise, lack of early socialization as a puppy, underlying illness, or because of worsening anxieties as they age due to changing brain chemistry. The signs of fear can range from mild to severe, including trembling, vocalizing, panting, pacing, drooling, hiding, and digging at doors.

When pets get scared, they may try to flee and escape in search of safety. The source of firework noise can confuse our pets, so dogs may frantically try to escape outside. This leads to pets running away from home and putting themselves in danger of injury microchip information are current, and secure your home and yard as a precaution.

Advanced Planning: You can help your dog feel safe during a stressful time. Set your dog up for success with the following tips:

• Exercise or play outside earlier in the day. Plan bathroom breaks and outdoor exercises accordingly to avoid going outside after the fireworks or storm start. If you must go outside, keep them on a leash, even in a fenced-in backyard, as a precaution.
• Stay home to comfort them. Many dogs with noise phobias may also have some separation anxiety, so your absence may make them even more stressed. If this isn’t possible, consider a pet sitter they know and trust. Punishment must never be used because it will only increase your dog’s distress.
• Create a safe space. This should be in a location of the home with which they are familiar. Provide a cozy bed or blankets. Hopefully the room will be the farthest from the noise and with few or no windows in order to decrease outside sound. Only use a crate if they are already accustomed to it and consider it a safe spot.
• Play white noise and music. Layering two different types of sound can help drown out the noise. Calming classical music may also help reduce stress.
• Offer long-lasting treats such as stuffed frozen Kongs, lick mats, or other food toys.

If your dog’s fear, anxiety and stress feel unmanageable during fireworks, thunderstorms, or other loud noises, speak to your veterinarian, or consider a referral to a veterinary behaviorist, as more extensive treatment, including medications and behavior modification, may be needed.

If medications will be used:

• Trial them first on a day without noise to see how your dog tolerates them.
• Give medications in plenty of time before the fireworks or thunderstorms start. It is much easier to prevent a fearful reaction than to reverse one.

Source:

Cornell University

College of Veterinary Medicine

Summertime can mean additional car travel with your pet! It might seem fun to allow your dog on your lap while you’re out driving. Your pet also might enjoy the freedom of prancing from seat to seat and then letting his ears blow in the wind out the car window.

Did you ever see a dog out for a ride running freely in the back of a pickup truck?

Dog ownership means protecting our pets. So, just as any other passenger in your vehicle, your pet needs to be protected.

Even the smallest fender bender can mean a jolt upon impact.  Some of us might feel that we’re depriving our dogs of the freedom of movement in the car, but that freedom might cost them their lives. Additionally, loose pets are a major driving distraction. Securing them prevents them from jumping on your lap, climbing under the pedals, or jumping out an open window.

To keep your dog safe in the car, always secure them in the backseat or cargo area using a crash-tested harness, carrier, or crate. The backseat also can protect them from front-seat deploying airbags.

 The Best Restraint Options

To ensure you choose a genuinely protective product, look for devices that have been officially crash-tested.

• Crash-Tested Crates: Often considered the safest option, particularly for larger dogs, as they contain the pet securely and absorb impact forces. Top-rated models include the Gunner Kennels line, which frequently ranks high in independent safety evaluations.
• Crash-Tested Harnesses: If your dog rides on the seat, a harness distributes the force of a crash across their chest and back. The Center for Pet Safety (CPS)  is the leading independent testing nonprofit and provides a list of certified travel harnesses.
• Seatbelt Tethers: Simple tethers click into your vehicle’s buckle slot and attach to your dog’s harness. (Always use a harness with tethers, never attach one to a neck collar). Note that many standard tethers only stop distracted driving and are not officially crash-tested.

What to Avoid

• Avoid Open Truck Beds: If transporting your dog in an open truck bed, they should be securely tethered in a specialized crash-tested crate rather than tied by the collar, which poses a severe choking hazard.
• Avoid Extension Tethers and Zipline-Style Products

CPS does not recommend extension tethers or zipline-style products because they increase the risk of injury to you, your passengers, and your pet during sudden stops or crashes.

Best Practices for Crate Safety: Use Strength-Rated Anchor Straps

Crates should always be secured with strength-rated anchor straps. In the 2015 CPS Crate Crashworthiness Study, proper anchor straps significantly reduced crate excursion into the seatback or passenger compartment.

 Never Leave Your Pets Unattended: Leaving a dog in a parked car can lead to heatstroke very quickly, even if the windows are cracked or the car is parked in the shade.

 CPS assists in giving you informed, science-based decisions that keep everyone safer on the road.

Source

Center for Pet Safety (CPS)

Pet Loss

“If the stars alone could bring you home, I would wish on every one.” 

 A Pocket Full of Grief
Jessica Tyrell

When it began, we’re not sure, but every second Tuesday in June has been designated to honor our animal friends who have passed. This year, World Pet Memorial Day fell on June 9. Some pet lovers may want to follow Rainbow Bridge Remembrance Day, which is observed annually on August 28.

Anyone who has had a pet as a best friend and family member understands the feeling of loss that accompanies their passing. Many of us who have lost our pets may not need to rely on a designated day to recall their loss, though there are others who find special comfort in these established remembrance days.

Animals provide so very much joy, companionship, emotional support, and bonding, which makes it so difficult to part with them.

How does one deal with the loss? Some possibilities for dealing with the loss of a pet follow. Additional information and links are provided.

Ideas to assist through the grieving process:

• Communicate with those who understand your grief. The pet lovers’ community is a strong one and can be a shoulder to lean on. Many As Good as Gold friends/members have gone through pet loss and prove to be extremely supportive and understanding—don’t hesitate to reach out to them.
• Create a memorial in a special place in your home or garden, perhaps include a memorial stone.
• “In Memory” donations. Donate to a local animal rescue group in your pet’s name. (As Good as Gold offers the ability to make “In Memory” donations https://interland3.donorperfect.net/weblink/weblink.aspx?name=E356588&id=1
• Volunteer at your local animal shelter or rescue group.  Give back to the animals by volunteering your time and company.  There are many different types of activities — something for everyone!  (Would you be up to dog sitting for As Good as Gold foster dogs or members’ pets?) https://www.asgoodasgold.org/dog-sitting-program/
• Plant flowers, a tree, or a shrub in honor of your pet. A potted plant could be a consideration too, if space is limited. The beauty of nature will encourage your smile!

• Make a memory book or photo album. Most of us have lots of photos of our dogs on our phones. There are many different websites and apps available that make creating a memory book simple and seamless.  You might try Mixbook https://www.mixbook.com/photo-books, Shutterfly https://www.mixbook.com/photo-books, or check the CVS or Walgreens apps.

Resource: https://caringhandsvet.com/world-pet-memorial-day/

 In between hello and good-bye there was so much love.

Counseling

•  Your veterinarian could be a superb source for recommendations to assist you as you process this loss. They may have a list of pet loss counselors or support groups.
• The Chicago Veterinary Medical Association, through their Human-Animal Bond Committee, offers the Pet Loss Support Helpline and “Wings,” a pet loss support group.
  • The Helpline is a free service for grieving pet owners. Trained volunteers offer support by active listening as well as providing printed materials and referrals when needed. Helpline number: 630 325 1600
  • Wings – Pet Loss Support Group Wings hosts a Zoom meeting on the first Wednesday evening of every month. Call the CVMA office for details 630 325 1231.

Additional Resources offering free grief support group sessions and more:

https://www.hinsdalehumanesociety.org/events/pet-loss-grief-support-group-sessions

https://www.pawschicago.org/news-resources/resources/coping-with-pet-loss

Facts about Grief:

https://www.veterinarywisdom.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Five-Facts-about-Grief-2021.pdf

The following information was gathered through the Purdue University College of Veterinary Medicine

 https://vet.purdue.edu/search.php?q=pet+loss#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=pet%20loss&gsc.page=1

 In her writing, Moira Moira Anderson Allen, M.Ed. writes,

Anyone who considers a pet a beloved friend, companion, or family member knows the intense pain that accompanies the loss of that friend. Following are some tips on coping with that grief, and with the difficult decisions one faces upon the loss of a pet.

Intense grief over the loss of a pet is normal and natural. Don’t let anyone tell you that it’s silly, crazy, or overly sentimental to grieve!

During the years you spent with your pet (even if they were few), it became a significant and constant part of your life. It was a source of comfort and companionship, of unconditional love and acceptance, of fun and joy. So don’t be surprised if you feel devastated by the loss of such a relationship.

Some find it helpful to express their feelings and memories in poems, stories, or letters to the pet. Other strategies including rearranging your schedule to fill in the times you would have spent with your pet; preparing a memorial such as a photo collage; and talking to others about your loss.

For Ms. Anderson Allen’s complete article and additional resources, please go to her site,

Pet-loss.net:

https://pet-loss.net/?_ga=2.197477414.86456964.1716743482-1692422633.1716743482

See also

Association for Pet Loss and Bereavement (APLB)

Hosts many resources to assist families in coping with the loss of their family pet.

https://www.aplb.org/?_ga=2.165316918.86456964.1716743482-1692422633.1716743482

I was scared to move to the next chapter in the thought of leaving you behind.
But you can’t carry on a story without the memory of what has been.

 A Pocket full of Grief
Jessia Tyrrell