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For many rescue dogs, routine procedures such as nail trims, ear cleaning, brushing, medications, or veterinary handling can quickly become overwhelming. Some dogs have little prior handling experience, while others may already associate restraint and medical care with fear or discomfort.
Cooperative care offers a different approach.

At its core, cooperative care teaches dogs to willingly participate in husbandry and veterinary care instead of simply enduring it. Rather than forcing a dog through a procedure, the process focuses on trust, communication, predictability, and small achievable steps.

One of the most important themes from the seminar was that many handling struggles are not signs of a “bad dog.” Often, the dog is simply overwhelmed.

Laura described how dogs are frequently pushed into situations they are not prepared for, react emotionally or defensively, and are then labeled as fearful, stubborn, or aggressive. Over time, both the dog and caregiver begin dreading routine care.

Cooperative care attempts to “tip the scales” back toward success by slowing down the process and reinforcing small wins.

For example, instead of immediately attempting a full nail trim, training may begin with simply showing the clippers, briefly touching a paw, or rewarding calm behavior around the sound of a Dremel. The same approach can be used for ear care, oral care, injections, grooming, basket muzzles, and veterinary handling.

One particularly interesting concept discussed was consent-based handling. Dogs cannot verbally consent, of course, but they can learn predictable behaviors that communicate comfort and willingness to continue.

Examples included the following:

• Resting the chin on a towel or platform
• Standing calmly on a mat
• Remaining voluntarily engaged during handling

If the dog disengages or moves away, the handler pauses and reassesses rather than forcing the procedure forward.

The presentation also emphasized that medical and behavioral care often overlap. Pain, skin sensitivity, chronic ear infections, orthopedic issues, and previous medical trauma can all influence how comfortably a dog participates in handling.

One important reminder was that medication support is not failure. In some cases, veterinarian-prescribed pre-visit medications can significantly reduce stress and help prevent traumatic experiences.

For many AGaG members, the biggest takeaway may simply be this: slow down.

If a dog struggles with handling, that does not necessarily mean the dog is difficult or intentionally resistant. Often, the dog is communicating discomfort, confusion, fear, or lack of preparation.

A few practical starting points include the following:

• Keep sessions short and successful
• Pair handling with high-value rewards
• Watch body language closely
• Stop before the dog becomes overwhelmed
• Break procedures into smaller steps
• Include your veterinarian in the plan

Progress may feel slow initially, but repeated small successes often produce far better long-term results than repeatedly forcing stressful procedures.

A special thank you to Julie Dorsey-Oskerka and A Sound Beginning Program for hosting the seminar and supporting DuPage County Animal Services through the fundraiser connected to the event.

Resources:

Laura Monaco Torelli
https://www.lauramonacotorelli.com/

Laura’s YouTube Channel
https://www.youtube.com/@lauramonacotorelli

Karen Pryor Academy Cooperative Care Course
https://karenpryoracademy.com/live-classes/#lmt

A Sound Beginning Program
https://asoundbeginningprogram.com/

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A “sniffari” means allowing your dog an opportunity to explore! Use a lead and harness that allow for comfort and movement. Look for a less-crowded area, a green space: a park, soccer field, trail, or beach. Let your dog be a dog! Depending on your pet’s ability, allow some slack in the leash. Their noses will lead the way!

Let Them Read the Full Story!

When your dog is sniffing out scents during a walk, they’re reading a story, of sorts. Don’t let them miss the ending by moving them away before they’ve finished.

Let the Dog tell You

Child, “Mom, may I pet that cute dog?
Mom, “Remember to STOPP!”

• S is for Stop
  Stop before moving forward.
• T is for Talk
  Ask the owner for permission.
• O is for Observe
  Observe the dog yourself. Decide what the dog might be “saying to you.” *
• P is for Plan
  Plan how you will approach the dog.
• P is for Pet
  Pet the friendly dog and enjoy!

*Observe and respect the dog’s body language. What is he telling you?

Q Do I put out my hand for the dog to smell me?
A The dog can smell you. Let the dog come to you first. Then squat down and put out your hand only when the dog is saying “I want to be petted.”

Most dogs don’t’ enjoy being petted on their heads. Instead, choose under the chin or on their sides.

Source: Ask the Dog, by Steve Dale

Signs Indicating, “Please Pet Me!”

• Dog approaches you smiling, wagging, and wriggling back and forth!
• The dog moves into your space and may even lean against you.
• The dog might roll onto her back and wag her tail.

Signs Indicating, “Don’t Pet Me Right Now!”

• Dog turns its head in the opposite direction of you.
• Yawning could be a sign of stress. If the dog’s tail is sticking straight out and kind of down, he’s not in the mood to be petted
• Displacement Behavior: A dog who pretends you’re not there by sniff at the ground or staring into space.
• Lip licking could indicate anxiety or stress by the dog.

Weather Wise

• During hot summer days, walking during the cooler periods of the morning and evening will help to keep your best friend from becoming overheated.
• Most goldens love to run, but keeping up with their jogger owners is not appropriate for all of them. Have your dog assessed by your veterinarian before having them run with you, especially in the summer.

Source: Barron’s Dog Bibles: Golden Retrievers, Edie MacKenzie

Dealing with Ticks

Depending on where you travel with your dog and when, any season can be tick season. Even in the upper Midwest, we need to be vigilant year round.

• Steer clear of tall grasses, deeper forest areas, and areas that are not mowed.
• See your veterinarian for preventative medication.
• See full articles from last month’s
  Education Newsletter on Lyme Disease and Tick Removal

Brief Info on Leash Walking

Place your pup on your left side. In a happy, voice, tell her, “Suzie, let’s walk!” Lead off with your left foot and begin moving in a moderate pace. If her collar remains in the area of your knee for a few steps, mark, and reward. Repeat every 4-5 steps. If her collar moves past your knee, quickly change direction so that she must follow you. When she catches up and her collar is once again even with your knee, mark and reward.

Source: Barron’s Dog Bibles: Golden Retrievers, Edie MacKenzie

What If My Dog Runs Off?

No one wants to face the prospect of their furry family member getting away from them, yet it happens, and for a multitude of reasons.

It’s National Chip Your Pet month!
Be sure you can reunite with your pet if he or she gets away from you!

Collars and tags can be physically removed when a pet gets lost or stolen, but a microchip is tamper-proof and makes it nearly impossible to permanently lose a pet. Although microchips can’t tell you where your pet is (it doesn’t have GPS capabilities), it does alert you when it’s activated.

Most people who rescue animals off the street know to bring them to a vet or shelter. From there, the first thing a veterinarian or shelter worker will do is check for a microchip, which is why it is so important to chip your pet. Microchips also last a lifetime and only need to be updated with your current information whenever it changes, such as when you move or change your phone number. For quality assurance, have your vet check it once a year to make sure it is still in place and working properly.

Source: Today’s Veterinary Practice

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Memorial Sloan Ketting recently completed a study with findings from a small cohort of dogs that showed several specific proteins were elevated in hemangiosarcoma cells comparted to normal cells–pointing to promising targets for precision therapies that destroy cancer cells while sparing healthy tissue.

Building on these results, they will begin studying a larger cohort of dogs and develop antibodies to deliver radioactive particles and chemotherapy drugs directly to the proteins on cancer cells, minimizing harm to healthy tissues. If successful, the results could lead to clinical trials for dogs with hemangiosarcoma.

For additional information, please go to morrisanimalfoundation.org

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Skin tags can sometimes be mistaken for ticks, so before you take any action, it’s important to confirm that you’re dealing with a pest and not a benign part of your dog’s body. Look for these tick characteristics:

• Eight legs
• A black, tan, or brown body (sometimes after feeding on an animal, they can turn gray)
• A size anywhere from 1 millimeter to 1 centimeter long

Two. Gather supplies. 

• Tweezers or a tick remover device*
• Latex gloves, or gloves made of a latex alternative, to protect your hands
• Rubbing alcohol
• Dog-friendly antimicrobial wound spray or ointment
• A small jar or container with a lid
• Tweezers with a slanted or flat edge

*Use a fine-point tweezers to avoid tearing the tick and spreading possible infections into the bite area.

Grasp the tick with your tool. 

Start by holding your tool in your dominant hand, and use your other hand to part your dog’s fur around the tick. Then:

• If using tweezers, grasp the tick as close as possible to your dog’s skin. Be careful to avoid pinching your dog’s skin, which could make them jump.
• If you’re using a tick scoop, key, card, tick-removal hook, or twister, firmly press it against your dog’s skin as close as possible to where the tick is. The tick should be inside the opening in your tool.

Spread your dog’s fur, then grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible. Very gently, pull straight upward, in a slow, steady motion.

Remove the tick. 

• If you’re using tweezers, a tick scoop, key, or card, pull the tick straight back from your dog’s skin with a slow and steady motion. Keep slowly pulling until the tick lets go of your dog’s skin. Don’t twist or jerk the tick away, because that can leave behind tick mouthparts, which can cause inflammation and infection.
• If you’re using a tick twister, twist upward to release the tick.

Safely contain the tick. 

It’s a good idea to keep the tick in a secure container for several weeks after the bite. It can be helpful in case your veterinarian needs to know exactly what bit your pet and what illnesses the critter was carrying.

You can do this by dropping the tick into a small, sealable container containing rubbing alcohol to kill it; write the date you removed the tick on the container.

Don’t crush the tick with your fingers. This can expose you to infectious organisms in the tick. And remember to wear gloves when handling the tick for removal and containment.

Check the site of the tick bite. 

Examine the skin where you removed the tick immediately after removing it. If you have been successful in removing the whole tick, gently cleanse your dog’s skin with a small amount of pet-safe disinfectant  or soap and water.

What To Do If the Tick’s Head Is Stuck in Your Dog’s Skin

If there are any embedded tick mouthparts (or other parts) left behind in your dog’s skin, call your veterinarian and make an appointment with them to remove the tick’s head and mouthparts before it causes a skin infection.

Keep an eye on the area where the tick was embedded to ensure it heals properly. Most tick bites heal within two to three days. If signs of infection or inflammation (redness, discharge, swelling) occur, call your vet.

Watch for symptoms for several weeks. 

Monitor your dog for any signs of tick-borne disease for several weeks. Signs and symptoms are listed above.

Sources Cited:

American Kennel Club

Chewy

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Lyme disease (named after the Connecticut town of Lyme) is an illness caused by a type of bacteria (Borrelia burgdorferi) that’s transmitted through certain ticks. A small percentage of infected dogs go on to develop signs of illness—which can be quite severe.

How do dogs contact Lyme disease?

Animals can become infected when they’re bitten by ticks that harbor the disease-causing bacteria. These ticks can be found in grassy, wooded, or marshy areas while hiking or camping, or even in our own backyards.

Immature ticks (larva and nymph life stages) become infected when they feed on the blood of infected wildlife. Infected nymphs or adult female ticks can then spread the bacteria when they take their next blood meal, provided they feed on their animal or human “host” for at least 24-48 hours, which means it is important to remove the tick as soon as possible after attachment.

Depending on their life stage, ticks may not be easily seen on pets, for although adult ticks are about the size of a sesame seed—and even bigger when full of blood, nymphs are smaller (about the size of a poppy seed).

I have had two goldens and brush them each night before bed mainly to get the dust and the tangles out. I thought I’d be able to sight ticks while doing this. I was wrong. During a wellness exam, our vet discovered that our first golden had been exposed to a tick. Our dog was put on a course of antibiotics. Thank goodness she had been on preventatives! She was fine. The density, thickness, and color of most dogs’ coats can prevent us from seeing ticks. So, my take away here is PREVENTIVE MEDICATIONS, TICK CHECKS and VETERINARY EXAMS all count!

It’s been often thought that ticks are most active from early spring through fall, but climate change and other variations have made veterinary science realize that year-round protection is necessary.

Signs and Symptoms of Lyme disease in dogs

Evidence of the disease typically presents 2-5 months after the dogs were first infected. By this time, the disease has spread throughout the body.

The illness can take many forms. The most common signs: intermittent limping or lameness, fever, loss of appetite, decreased activity, swollen lymph nodes, painful and swollen joints.

Some dogs with Lyme also may develop a type of kidney disease called Lyme nephritis, which can lead to edema, weight loss, vomiting, diarrhea, and sometimes death.

How is Lyme disease diagnosed and treated?

Blood tests are available that quickly show whether a dog has been exposed to the Borrelia bacteria. The standard treatment is a 30-day course of antibiotics. A longer course may be necessary for some dogs, such as those with Lyme nephritis.

The American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine recommends testing any dog living in or recently visiting a Lyme endemic area for antibodies. This is typically done as part of the annual wellness visit. The point is to identify infected dogs in order to catch the potential for Lyme disease symptoms in the future.

How can I protect my dog against Lyme disease?

The best way to protect dogs against Lyme disease is to
take preventive measures
to reduce the chance of tick bites, and of catching the disease if bitten.

• Use reliable tick-preventive products as recommended by your veterinarian.
• Ask your veterinarian whether your dog could benefit from vaccination against Lyme disease.
• When possible, avoid tick-prone spots like tall grasses, marshes, and wooded areas. If hiking on trails with your dog, stick to cleared trails and avoid brushing against overhanging branches or shrubs.
• After possible exposure, you might try using the TiCK MiTT on your pet. It contains fibers similar to Velcro that snag many ticks before they embed. You simply swipe the mitt over your dog’s fur. Note that It is less effective on very dense, curly fur.
• Examine your pet for ticks immediately after returning home from any tick-prone spots and carefully remove any ticks found. Make your yard unfriendly to ticks by mowing grasses, trimming bushes, and removing brush.
• Perform daily “tick checks” of all pets and people in your home, especially during high-risk seasons (spring through fall).

Sources cited:

• Veterinary Information Network
• American Veterinary Medical Association

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Locating a Lost Dog

Mia, who was adopted by Donna and Jim Davis this past November, was just about to complete a walk in the park on her birthday, February 12. She was with her boxer brother Dexter, her golden retriever sister, Frankie, and her mom and dad. Mia was wearing her harness and was on a retractable leash when suddenly her leash tangled with one of the other leashes and fell to the ground. She took off running with Donna following her as best she could.

She was so fast that she was quickly out of sight. “We got scared and nervous and tried to track her down as best we could. It’s a very large park. She was very frightened and just kept running,” Jim said. Donna and Jim kept looking and calling her. It was getting dark. A conservation officer came by and tried to assist. Unfortunately, Donna and Jim we were required to leave the park, so headed home.

The next day, Friday the 13th, family and friends joined the Davises in the search for Mia, but to no avail.

Experts Arrive

The Davis family reached out to experienced search and rescue organizations for much-needed assistance. Drone searches were conducted by Mike Smith, owner of SmithicAir, and Michael Davis, owner of Best Furry Friends (BFF). Linda Hartman, a volunteer with Lost Dogs Illinois, joined the search.

Recovery Expert Insights

Linda Hartman is a dog recovery expert. She explained how Mia and other lost dogs often feel.
Fear often takes over, and they assume a survival mode. They don’t recognize their owners. Even though Mia was just beginning to become close to her fur sister Frankie, now when she saw her from afar, she saw her new sister as a predator.

Mia came in contact with a coyote; in fact they were face-to-face. Though Mia is only 35 pounds, Linda stated that sometimes coyotes don’t want to approach certain dogs for fear they could get bit.

Recovery

Once the first drone sighted Mia and followed her for several days, it was felt there could be a happy ending for Mia and her family.

Linda, from Lost Dogs Illinois offered recovery insights:

Feeding stations heavy with owner scent were maintained. And, on a couple of occasions, Mia came within yards of Donna, but fear pushed her away again. Another setback came when she disappeared for three days, and in a conservation area with active wildlife, that silence is brutal. But we kept reminding ourselves that lost dogs are incredibly resilient. We trusted the process and stayed consistent. Low and behold, she showed up again on our cameras. What a relief!

The drone operators had the ability to maneuver their drones to encourage Mia to go in certain directions so Donna and Frankie could attempt to lure Mia to them.

It took more than two weeks for the conservation board members to approve the use of a live trap (crate.) But, once approved, Linda and Mike were confident they could trap her. The crate was lined with astro turf and overlayed with straw. A pair of Donna’s socks were placed inside. Linda indicated that the scent could help Mia snap out of survival mode. Mia would find food and water inside too! BFF and Linda put in countless hours watching the trap and tracking Mia’s movements.

Finally, in the early morning of March 1, all the efforts came together! Mia was safe and tucked securely in her crate.

The Aftermath

Mia’s family reports that she is doing very well now. She sustained a soft tissue injury to her right leg, which is healing well. Mia had been a food grazer, but not since returning home. She now eats all of her dinner right away. Before her escape, she wasn’t a huge fan of Jim. Now she is around him much more.

For walks, Mia is double leashed. One leash goes on her Martingale collar, the other leash (non-retractable) is attached to her harness. Mia, Frankie and Dexter now have a GPS tracker on their collars to ensure their whereabouts.

Lost Dog Tips from the Professionals

• Create a station with your dog’s food, water bowl, blankets and/or bed where she was last seen.
• Post your dog on Lost Dogs Illinois by registering with PetFBI at petfbi.org.
• Get the word out by using fliers and signs with a picture of your dog and your phone number. Go door-to-door with your fliers in the neighborhood where your dog was last seen.
• Contact your local animal shelters, animal control facilities, vet clinics and police departments to report your dog missing. Email them a photo of your dog and your contact information.
• Notify the microchip company that your dog is missing and confirm that the chip is registered with your current contact information.
• If the dog is a fearful one, instruct everyone who is helping not to call or chase him as this will prolong your search.
• If the dog is near, sitting or lying down and tossing out treats is the best way to lure him in.
• No direct eye contact.
• Retractable leashes carry risk. If dropped, the noise and dragging handle can scare a dog and trigger a strong flight response.
• Be resourceful. If you encounter a roadblock, respectfully continue the conversation with the appropriate decision-makers. Sometimes it just takes persistence and collaboration. Decisions can change when the right people understand the mission.

Video from one of the drones covering Mia:
SmithicAir video: https://youtu.be/Y1R2StfvhtY

Recognitions:

Best Furry Friends, Michael Davis
Preferred Contact Method: bffsearchandrescue@gmail.com

Lost Dogs Illinois, especially Linda Hartman
https://lostdogsillinois.org

SmithicAir, Mike Smith
https://www.smithicair.com/home

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