Memorial Sloan Ketting recently completed a study with findings from a small cohort of dogs that showed several specific proteins were elevated in hemangiosarcoma cells comparted to normal cells–pointing to promising targets for precision therapies that destroy cancer cells while sparing healthy tissue.

Building on these results, they will begin studying a larger cohort of dogs and develop antibodies to deliver radioactive particles and chemotherapy drugs directly to the proteins on cancer cells, minimizing harm to healthy tissues. If successful, the results could lead to clinical trials for dogs with hemangiosarcoma.

For additional information, please go to morrisanimalfoundation.org

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Skin tags can sometimes be mistaken for ticks, so before you take any action, it’s important to confirm that you’re dealing with a pest and not a benign part of your dog’s body. Look for these tick characteristics:

• Eight legs
• A black, tan, or brown body (sometimes after feeding on an animal, they can turn gray)
• A size anywhere from 1 millimeter to 1 centimeter long

Two. Gather supplies. 

• Tweezers or a tick remover device*
• Latex gloves, or gloves made of a latex alternative, to protect your hands
• Rubbing alcohol
• Dog-friendly antimicrobial wound spray or ointment
• A small jar or container with a lid
• Tweezers with a slanted or flat edge

*Use a fine-point tweezers to avoid tearing the tick and spreading possible infections into the bite area.

Grasp the tick with your tool. 

Start by holding your tool in your dominant hand, and use your other hand to part your dog’s fur around the tick. Then:

• If using tweezers, grasp the tick as close as possible to your dog’s skin. Be careful to avoid pinching your dog’s skin, which could make them jump.
• If you’re using a tick scoop, key, card, tick-removal hook, or twister, firmly press it against your dog’s skin as close as possible to where the tick is. The tick should be inside the opening in your tool.

Spread your dog’s fur, then grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible. Very gently, pull straight upward, in a slow, steady motion.

Remove the tick. 

• If you’re using tweezers, a tick scoop, key, or card, pull the tick straight back from your dog’s skin with a slow and steady motion. Keep slowly pulling until the tick lets go of your dog’s skin. Don’t twist or jerk the tick away, because that can leave behind tick mouthparts, which can cause inflammation and infection.
• If you’re using a tick twister, twist upward to release the tick.

Safely contain the tick. 

It’s a good idea to keep the tick in a secure container for several weeks after the bite. It can be helpful in case your veterinarian needs to know exactly what bit your pet and what illnesses the critter was carrying.

You can do this by dropping the tick into a small, sealable container containing rubbing alcohol to kill it; write the date you removed the tick on the container.

Don’t crush the tick with your fingers. This can expose you to infectious organisms in the tick. And remember to wear gloves when handling the tick for removal and containment.

Check the site of the tick bite. 

Examine the skin where you removed the tick immediately after removing it. If you have been successful in removing the whole tick, gently cleanse your dog’s skin with a small amount of pet-safe disinfectant  or soap and water.

What To Do If the Tick’s Head Is Stuck in Your Dog’s Skin

If there are any embedded tick mouthparts (or other parts) left behind in your dog’s skin, call your veterinarian and make an appointment with them to remove the tick’s head and mouthparts before it causes a skin infection.

Keep an eye on the area where the tick was embedded to ensure it heals properly. Most tick bites heal within two to three days. If signs of infection or inflammation (redness, discharge, swelling) occur, call your vet.

Watch for symptoms for several weeks. 

Monitor your dog for any signs of tick-borne disease for several weeks. Signs and symptoms are listed above.

Sources Cited:

American Kennel Club

Chewy

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Lyme disease (named after the Connecticut town of Lyme) is an illness caused by a type of bacteria (Borrelia burgdorferi) that’s transmitted through certain ticks. A small percentage of infected dogs go on to develop signs of illness—which can be quite severe.

How do dogs contact Lyme disease?

Animals can become infected when they’re bitten by ticks that harbor the disease-causing bacteria. These ticks can be found in grassy, wooded, or marshy areas while hiking or camping, or even in our own backyards.

Immature ticks (larva and nymph life stages) become infected when they feed on the blood of infected wildlife. Infected nymphs or adult female ticks can then spread the bacteria when they take their next blood meal, provided they feed on their animal or human “host” for at least 24-48 hours, which means it is important to remove the tick as soon as possible after attachment.

Depending on their life stage, ticks may not be easily seen on pets, for although adult ticks are about the size of a sesame seed—and even bigger when full of blood, nymphs are smaller (about the size of a poppy seed).

I have had two goldens and brush them each night before bed mainly to get the dust and the tangles out. I thought I’d be able to sight ticks while doing this. I was wrong. During a wellness exam, our vet discovered that our first golden had been exposed to a tick. Our dog was put on a course of antibiotics. Thank goodness she had been on preventatives! She was fine. The density, thickness, and color of most dogs’ coats can prevent us from seeing ticks. So, my take away here is PREVENTIVE MEDICATIONS, TICK CHECKS and VETERINARY EXAMS all count!

It’s been often thought that ticks are most active from early spring through fall, but climate change and other variations have made veterinary science realize that year-round protection is necessary.

Signs and Symptoms of Lyme disease in dogs

Evidence of the disease typically presents 2-5 months after the dogs were first infected. By this time, the disease has spread throughout the body.

The illness can take many forms. The most common signs: intermittent limping or lameness, fever, loss of appetite, decreased activity, swollen lymph nodes, painful and swollen joints.

Some dogs with Lyme also may develop a type of kidney disease called Lyme nephritis, which can lead to edema, weight loss, vomiting, diarrhea, and sometimes death.

How is Lyme disease diagnosed and treated?

Blood tests are available that quickly show whether a dog has been exposed to the Borrelia bacteria. The standard treatment is a 30-day course of antibiotics. A longer course may be necessary for some dogs, such as those with Lyme nephritis.

The American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine recommends testing any dog living in or recently visiting a Lyme endemic area for antibodies. This is typically done as part of the annual wellness visit. The point is to identify infected dogs in order to catch the potential for Lyme disease symptoms in the future.

How can I protect my dog against Lyme disease?

The best way to protect dogs against Lyme disease is to
take preventive measures
to reduce the chance of tick bites, and of catching the disease if bitten.

• Use reliable tick-preventive products as recommended by your veterinarian.
• Ask your veterinarian whether your dog could benefit from vaccination against Lyme disease.
• When possible, avoid tick-prone spots like tall grasses, marshes, and wooded areas. If hiking on trails with your dog, stick to cleared trails and avoid brushing against overhanging branches or shrubs.
• After possible exposure, you might try using the TiCK MiTT on your pet. It contains fibers similar to Velcro that snag many ticks before they embed. You simply swipe the mitt over your dog’s fur. Note that It is less effective on very dense, curly fur.
• Examine your pet for ticks immediately after returning home from any tick-prone spots and carefully remove any ticks found. Make your yard unfriendly to ticks by mowing grasses, trimming bushes, and removing brush.
• Perform daily “tick checks” of all pets and people in your home, especially during high-risk seasons (spring through fall).

Sources cited:

• Veterinary Information Network
• American Veterinary Medical Association

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Locating a Lost Dog

Mia, who was adopted by Donna and Jim Davis this past November, was just about to complete a walk in the park on her birthday, February 12. She was with her boxer brother Dexter, her golden retriever sister, Frankie, and her mom and dad. Mia was wearing her harness and was on a retractable leash when suddenly her leash tangled with one of the other leashes and fell to the ground. She took off running with Donna following her as best she could.

She was so fast that she was quickly out of sight. “We got scared and nervous and tried to track her down as best we could. It’s a very large park. She was very frightened and just kept running,” Jim said. Donna and Jim kept looking and calling her. It was getting dark. A conservation officer came by and tried to assist. Unfortunately, Donna and Jim we were required to leave the park, so headed home.

The next day, Friday the 13th, family and friends joined the Davises in the search for Mia, but to no avail.

Experts Arrive

The Davis family reached out to experienced search and rescue organizations for much-needed assistance. Drone searches were conducted by Mike Smith, owner of SmithicAir, and Michael Davis, owner of Best Furry Friends (BFF). Linda Hartman, a volunteer with Lost Dogs Illinois, joined the search.

Recovery Expert Insights

Linda Hartman is a dog recovery expert. She explained how Mia and other lost dogs often feel.
Fear often takes over, and they assume a survival mode. They don’t recognize their owners. Even though Mia was just beginning to become close to her fur sister Frankie, now when she saw her from afar, she saw her new sister as a predator.

Mia came in contact with a coyote; in fact they were face-to-face. Though Mia is only 35 pounds, Linda stated that sometimes coyotes don’t want to approach certain dogs for fear they could get bit.

Recovery

Once the first drone sighted Mia and followed her for several days, it was felt there could be a happy ending for Mia and her family.

Linda, from Lost Dogs Illinois offered recovery insights:

Feeding stations heavy with owner scent were maintained. And, on a couple of occasions, Mia came within yards of Donna, but fear pushed her away again. Another setback came when she disappeared for three days, and in a conservation area with active wildlife, that silence is brutal. But we kept reminding ourselves that lost dogs are incredibly resilient. We trusted the process and stayed consistent. Low and behold, she showed up again on our cameras. What a relief!

The drone operators had the ability to maneuver their drones to encourage Mia to go in certain directions so Donna and Frankie could attempt to lure Mia to them.

It took more than two weeks for the conservation board members to approve the use of a live trap (crate.) But, once approved, Linda and Mike were confident they could trap her. The crate was lined with astro turf and overlayed with straw. A pair of Donna’s socks were placed inside. Linda indicated that the scent could help Mia snap out of survival mode. Mia would find food and water inside too! BFF and Linda put in countless hours watching the trap and tracking Mia’s movements.

Finally, in the early morning of March 1, all the efforts came together! Mia was safe and tucked securely in her crate.

The Aftermath

Mia’s family reports that she is doing very well now. She sustained a soft tissue injury to her right leg, which is healing well. Mia had been a food grazer, but not since returning home. She now eats all of her dinner right away. Before her escape, she wasn’t a huge fan of Jim. Now she is around him much more.

For walks, Mia is double leashed. One leash goes on her Martingale collar, the other leash (non-retractable) is attached to her harness. Mia, Frankie and Dexter now have a GPS tracker on their collars to ensure their whereabouts.

Lost Dog Tips from the Professionals

• Create a station with your dog’s food, water bowl, blankets and/or bed where she was last seen.
• Post your dog on Lost Dogs Illinois by registering with PetFBI at petfbi.org.
• Get the word out by using fliers and signs with a picture of your dog and your phone number. Go door-to-door with your fliers in the neighborhood where your dog was last seen.
• Contact your local animal shelters, animal control facilities, vet clinics and police departments to report your dog missing. Email them a photo of your dog and your contact information.
• Notify the microchip company that your dog is missing and confirm that the chip is registered with your current contact information.
• If the dog is a fearful one, instruct everyone who is helping not to call or chase him as this will prolong your search.
• If the dog is near, sitting or lying down and tossing out treats is the best way to lure him in.
• No direct eye contact.
• Retractable leashes carry risk. If dropped, the noise and dragging handle can scare a dog and trigger a strong flight response.
• Be resourceful. If you encounter a roadblock, respectfully continue the conversation with the appropriate decision-makers. Sometimes it just takes persistence and collaboration. Decisions can change when the right people understand the mission.

Video from one of the drones covering Mia:
SmithicAir video: https://youtu.be/Y1R2StfvhtY

Recognitions:

Best Furry Friends, Michael Davis
Preferred Contact Method: bffsearchandrescue@gmail.com

Lost Dogs Illinois, especially Linda Hartman
https://lostdogsillinois.org

SmithicAir, Mike Smith
https://www.smithicair.com/home

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Even though more dogs than ever are living in our homes and 95 percent of pet owners consider them family, bite incidents have increased in recent years. Steve encouraged the audience to rethink the way we approach dogs. His message was simple: don’t just ask the owner, ask the dog.

Dogs are constantly communicating. Subtle signals like lip licking, turning away, stiff posture, freezing, or showing the whites of their eyes are early signs of stress. Too often, those warnings are missed, and the first behavior people recognize is a growl or snap. Most bites are not random acts of aggression. They are the final step after earlier communication has been ignored.

One practical takeaway was how we greet dogs. Many of us were taught to put our hand out so a dog can sniff it. In reality, dogs can smell us perfectly well from where we are standing. Reaching into a dog’s space can feel intrusive. A better approach is to pause, observe, and allow the dog to choose. If the dog wants interaction, it will move closer. If it turns away or moves off, that is communication and it should be respected.

Steve also discussed factors contributing to rising bite statistics, including pandemic-era under-socialization, punishment-based training that suppresses warning signals instead of addressing fear, lack of supervision between children and dogs, and untreated medical issues that make handling painful.

Reducing dog bites protects people, preserves the human–animal bond, and prevents unnecessary surrender or euthanasia. Most importantly, it reminds us that dogs are not objects to be handled. They are sentient companions who deserve to be understood.

It was an important reminder that sometimes the safest thing we can do is slow down and ask the dog.

Steve Dale is a Certified Animal Behavior Consultant (CABC)
Link to his web site: https://stevedalepetworld.com

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Some of our readers may have attended the As Good as Gold training seminar held this past September by then Education Coordinator, Stephanie DeCicco. The feedback from that seminar indicated some participants would be interested in learning more about how to deal with anxieties and fears in their dogs.

Hopefully readers who have recently adopted, are fostering, or have friends or family whose pet might be experiencing fears and anxieties will benefit from the insights below.

This article includes viewpoints of several dogs, in particular photos and comments by Abbie, whose parents are Pam and Joe. Abbie is an AGaG rescue

Recognizing What’s Occurring “Mom and dad, I’m really not naughty – – I’m afraid.”
To begin, the owner might wonder if their dog is misbehaving. Or could it be fearful reactions? How can you tell? Dogs who are fearful will do all they can to avoid the source of their fears. They might run, hide, cower, yawn, pace, lick their lips, growl or bark.

Providing a Safety Zone “I love my cozy spot!”
Trust develops between you and your dog once your dog feels safe–or at least more safe–in his/her environment. Providing a place where they like to go in which they feel safe and comfortable is important. A bed, a crate, a more secluded area with a blanket. A place where they can be more comfortable when strangers come to the house or when there are loud noises inside or out.

Training Method(s) “I like this cookie distraction plan!”
Positive reinforcement is man and dog’s best training tool! Fear-enforced training would certainly make the situation worse. Working with your pet on ways that will redirect their fears might include treats. Repetition of positive behavior methods strengthen the behavior being learned.

Don’t force your dog to face their fears “Thank goodness mom and dad are kind and understanding.”
It should be common knowledge not to throw people into the pool to learn to swim! They actually may become fearful of the water, if they weren’t before. Dogs won’t “get used to” the scary pots clanging in the kitchen if you force them to listen to them banging over and over. They actually might become more afraid, as with the toss into the pool. They might become immobilized and/or panic.

Mentor Dog “Thank goodness for my bestie, Tucker! I get my cues from him,” says Abbie.
A mentor dog in the family can often be helpful. The mentor dog can ease the fearful dog’s anxiety by showing them that certain situations are not threatening, and the fearful dog learns from observing the mentor’s reactions.

Abbie adds, “Mamie was my BFF when I first came to live with mom and dad. The very first time I went upstairs was when I heard a sound of thunder. I went into my mom’s office and laid near Mamie; she was not happy with the thunder either. Mom put calming vests on both of us and we settled down.(Mom thinks I had some setbacks after Mamie passed a few months later. It took me a while to recover, but Tucker is helping me out of my shell again!”

Seek professional help “Mom took me to the vet. He suggested a medicine to help me to be calm, and it’s helping.” My parents and I also meet with an animal behaviorist; they said she has good insights,” says Abbie.
Even a few lessons with a professional trainer might get owners through those first difficult steps. And your veterinarian could be a great resource. In fact, consulting with your veterinarian at the beginning is advisable just to confirm there is not an underlying medical issue that could be contributing to the fear. Your vet also might have training contacts or could suggest a veterinary behaviorist for those difficult cases.

Additional Tools, suggested by Abbie

Soothing melodies. “I prefer classical,” says Abbie. These headphones for pets help her make it through storms.

Happy Hoodie. The Happy Hoodie helps when pets are afraid of the blow drying during grooming. Pam says the hoodie helps during storms too.

One Step at a Time “I enjoy the loving attention I’m getting along the way!”
Working together with your dog in a positive manner in order to calm fears is not a race. Owners say that they sometimes have realized gradual changes, and when they do, it’s a win! As time goes on, and you’ve seen some great progress, just realize some pets may continue to have fears. Your pet could still be a happy and much-loved family member despite a small, lingering fear.

Abbie confided, “Wanna know what I did yesterday? Well, I settled onto what is Tucker’s normal spot at the top of the steps. It was kinda cool being the one looking down on him for a change! Of course, he’s still my best buddy, but I couldn’t help but smile!”

Pam and Joe, “Abbie was and still can be fearful. We have learned so much from her. Abbie is Abbie and we are so proud of how far she has come. We love her completely.”

To access the complete article, Eight Tips to Help Fearful Dogs Feel Safe, please use the link below: Companion Animal Psychology.

References
Animal Humane Society, “Help Your Anxious or Fearful Dog Gain Confidence.”
https://www.animalhumanesociety.org/resource/help-your-anxious-or-fearful-dog-gain-confidence

Zazie Todd, PhD., “Companion Animal Psychology.”
https://www.companionanimalpsychology.com/2018/08/eight-tips-to-help-fearful-dogs-feel.html

Pam and Joe, As Good as Gold members and adopters.

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Also known as Pavlovian conditioning or associative learning, both terms for what happens when an animal learns associations among things. Classical conditioning is also known as “muscle memory” or “habituation.”

For instance, your dog knows you wear a particular pair of boots when you go out hiking together. So every time you go get those boots, your dog jumps around with excitement.

Your dog has associated the boots with the walk and now the boots have value. Your dog knows that the first event, the going to get the boots, signals the prediction of the second event, the walk.

Classical conditioning is all about anticipation.

So how do we change a dog’s emotional state from FEAR of something to tolerance, acceptance, then ultimately TRUST? We use Counter-Conditioning and De-sensitizing to help a dog overcome fears, which we call TRIGGERS.

What’s a TRIGGER? It can be anything your dog is fearful of. It could be because your dog never had been exposed to something during puppyhood, learning all about the world. OR it could be because the association is perceived as a negative one.

Examples of TRIGGERS

• People: Men with beards, wearing hoods or riding bikes
• Animals: Scary big dogs or barking little dogs
• Things: Garbage trucks, strollers or skateboards
• Sounds: Dropping a dish, fireworks, or thunderstorms

How to use counter-conditioning and de-sensitizing – CC/DS

This process is accomplished different ways depending on what the fear is.

Creating DISTANCE is how we’d begin if your dog were fearful of other dogs on walks.

For Example:

If your dog were fearful of GROOMING then you’d first have to break it down into individual steps and work SLOWLY to begin the process of changing fear to trust.

So let’s start with GROOMING and how to change a dog’s fear of being brushed.

• You first pick up the brush – give the dog a treat
• You move the brush – give a treat
• The brush comes closer – double the treats

What you’re doing is changing the dog’s underlying emotional state. The brush is now the predictor of the treat and that’s how the process begins. The main reason why it’s hard for us humans is that we tend to rush the process. It only works if we watch our dog’s body language and only proceed to the next step once we see our dog is calm. So if you’re seeing any stress signals, body tensing up, moving away from you, those are signs saying you should stayat the easier step for a longer time.

Changing emotions can take 3 minutes, 3 hours, 3 days, 3 weeks, 3 months –

It all depends on how intense the fear is and how long has it been happening.

Summary:

• Take it SLOW
• Break down the process into small segments and work those individually
• Make sure treats are of high value. (Kibble is not sufficient)

Article authorized for use by Julie Dorsey-Oskerka

President/Owner of Positive Solutions for A Sound Beginning (a not-for-profit dedicated to supporting the rescue community).

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On average, obese animals have a shorter lifespan than lean animals. One study of labrador retrievers showed a decreased lifespan in overweight dogs (11.2 years) compared to lean, energy-restricted control dogs (13 years).

Weight gain in our four-legged companions can occur for a variety of reasons. Some diseases can lead to an increased risk of obesity in dogs (such as hypothyroidism), which is why it is always important to consult your veterinarian so they can examine your dog before recommending any dietary changes. In an otherwise healthy dog, weight gain is often due to an imbalance between the number of calories they are eating and the amount of calories that they are burning in their daily activity. This means obesity is one of the few conditions that plague our pets that we as owners can have some control over.

To ensure that our dogs are maintaining a healthy weight, we need to focus on choosing an appropriate amount of a quality food, promoting exercise, monitoring weight changes, monitoring treats, and adjusting the amount of food that they receive based on those changes. Whether you are trying to get your overweight dog back down to a healthy weight or prevent your dog from becoming overweight in the first place, here are some simple steps that you can follow to help you and your dog meet your goals.

When it comes to helping a dog lose weight, the first step is determining what their ideal body weight should be. Consult your veterinarian, as they can assess your dog’s body condition score (BCS) on a 9 point scale to help you understand your starting point. Your veterinarian can then use this BCS to establish an ideal weight for your dog and give you a reference point to track weight loss goals and progress. Dogs are considered overweight if they weigh 10-20% more than their ideal weight and obese if they are over 20% above it.

A BCS of 4-5 is considered ideal, so anything greater than 5 is overweight and anything less than 4 is underweight. Every 1-point increase or decrease from the ideal BCS score (4-5) is about 10-15% of their weight. For example, if your dog has a BCS of 6, they need to lose 10-15% of their body weight, whereas a dog with a BCS of 9 would need to lose 40-60% of their body weight. With this ideal weight in mind as the overall goal, you can set smaller weight loss goals for your dog of losing 1-2% of their body weight per week. It is important that dogs do not lose weight too quickly, as this could mean that they are missing out on essential nutrients, which could lead to other health problems.

The following is a chart that veterinarians use to assess body condition scoring in dogs.

Numerous diets are formulated for weight loss in dogs. Most weight loss diets restrict fat and calories. Some diets increase fiber and protein to help improve satiety.  Dietary protein of 25-30% dry matter and dietary fat of 5-15% dry matter are recommended.  Most weight loss diets are also fortified with essential nutrients relative to calories so that when energy is restricted, vitamins and minerals are not. Restricting caloric intake while using a maintenance diet for weight loss carries risk for nutrient deficiency.

Regardless of the diet selected for weight loss, it is imperative to account for any table scraps or treats when calculating daily caloric needs for weight loss. In one study of 61 owners and their dogs, 59% of dogs were fed table scraps, which accounted for 21% of their daily caloric intake.

Increasing energy expenditure by increasing physical activity is an integral component of most weight loss programs. Using puzzle feeders, playing fetch or catch, leash walks, and swimming are just some of the many ways to introduce exercise to dogs. Physical training programs have been shown to be effective for overweight dogs and are offered by some physical therapy and rehabilitation programs. However, one study reported that dietary caloric restriction was more effective than increasing physical activity for controlled weight loss. Thus, increasing physical activity alone is unlikely to promote sufficient weight loss. Dietary changes are needed as well.

Preventing obesity is very important for the overall health of companion animals. Numerous steps can be taken to prevent it and its complicating factors.

After dogs are spayed or neutered, decreased basal metabolic rate; decreased activity; and increased food intake all contribute to increased risk for obesity. One study cited that a 30% reduction in daily caloric intake after surgery was needed to avoid excessive weight gain.

Accurately measuring/calculating daily caloric intake is necessary to prevent obesity. Use standard measuring cups or a kitchen food scale to control the amount of food offered. Use of smaller bowls and specific measuring cups may also help control portions.  Free feeding is not recommended.

Once you have your goal weight, your veterinarian will also help you determine your dog’s current food intake; this includes the type of food they eat, the amount they receive, how often they are fed (2-3 times per day, free feeding, etc.), and the number of treats or extra food they are given. Feeding your pet’s daily ration over 2-3 isolated meals throughout the day is a great strategy to make it easier to monitor their intake.

Also, eliminating treats, especially human food, is another easy way to cut out unnecessary calories. Try to keep treats to ≤10% of daily total calories and consider using lower calorie treats instead.  We know treats can be important for training and bonding, so you can use some of their daily ration of dog food as treats throughout the day if this is something that you do not want to give up.  Many veterinarians will also recommend switching to a therapeutic weight loss diet that is designed to ensure that your dog still gets all the nutrients that they need but with fewer calories.

In addition to regulating their food intake, making some lifestyle changes to increase your dog’s daily activity is another important step in the weight loss journey, as it will help them burn some extra calories. Simple activities like short walks, play dates, romps in the dog park, and throwing fetch in the backyard a few times a day can be extremely beneficial for meeting your dog’s weight loss goals and keeping the weight off in the future. Regular exercise promotes maintenance of lean muscle mass while expending energy. Once your dog has returned to their ideal body weight, it is important to maintain some of these lifestyle changes so they can maintain that weight that you both have worked so hard to obtain.

Although it may seem somewhat minor due to the large number of dogs that are affected, obesity is a serious disease that can lead to a lot of other major health problems in our four-legged friends. Fortunately, as owners, we can make some simple dietary and lifestyle changes to help our dogs maintain a healthy weight that will increase not only the length but also the quality of their life. Some of these changes can be difficult for both you and your dog to adjust to, but if you stick to your plan and work with your veterinarian, it will certainly be worth it.

Linda Lewiston, DVM
With Amanda McWreath, Veterinary Student Class of 2023

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